The human anatomy is a very complicated subject to draw.  It has been said, that if one can master the human figure, one can draw anything.  I believe there is definitely some truth to that.

So if you are passionate about learning how to draw the human body, specifically the face, then you are sure to find the following tutorial extremely helpful.

The following is a 6 part video lesson demonstrating step by step, the process of drawing a realistic portrait.  It was created by the very talented portrait artist Ron Lemen.

Unfortunately, this drawing series has not been completed yet or the artist has not yet uploaded the final part.  I wasn’t planning on posting this incomplete tutorial, but it is such a valuable lesson, that I just couldn’t pass it up.  I hope you don’t mind. I promise to post the final part if and when it becomes available.

Grab your favorite pencils and paper and draw along...

Read the rest of this portrait drawing demo here...

Pastels are one of the easiest mediums to work with and therefore are a very popular choice amongst artists. Pastels combine the immediacy of a drawing medium while at the same time provide the artist with a color rich, paint like environment. With Pastel drawing, there is no need to prepare your drawing surface, as pastels can be applied directly to your support. There are no harsh chemicals or mediums to be concerned about and cleanup is a snap! It is no wonder why artists adore this medium so much.

Pastels are available in a wide range of exciting colors and materials from soft pastels and oil pastels, to pastel pencils and crayons. You could literally spend a lifetime exploring this versatile and exciting medium.

TYPE OF PASTELS

Pastels are available in a wide range of types and this is to accommodate the different tastes artists have. These various types of pastels are all created using similar pigments, only they are composed of different quantities or kinds of binding materials.

Soft Pastels

Soft pastels are the original form of this medium and probably the most popular. Soft pastels are composted of pure pigment, chalk and a gum solution. They produce rich colorful lines and are more often than not, looked upon as painting mediums more than drawing mediums. Soft pastels can produce subtle lines or can be built up into rich impastos. It provides the artist with the best of both worlds essentially. Of all the various types of pastels, soft pastels are available in the widest range of colors. They can be purchased individually or in sets.

Hard Pastels

Hard pastels, as the name implies, are hard and more suited for drawing and producing lines. Artists often use hard pastels and soft pastels together in the same drawing. The hard pastels are used to layout the drawing and the soft pastels are worked in over the hard. The hard pastels are then used again to finalize the drawing by adding in details. Hard pastels do not have the extensive range of color that soft pastels have. It is for this reason that you must utilize various optical color mixing techniques on your paper if you want to produce different colors.

Pastel Crayons

Pastel crayons are a hybrid medium of medium hardness that combine the characteristics of the hard and soft pastels. They are available in a limited range of colors when compared to soft pastels. Crayons are quite popular for artists that enjoy outdoor drawing as their convenient size makes them suitable for transport and their composition makes them less prone to breakage.

Pastel Pencils

Pastel pencils are very similar in composition to crayons only they are encased in wood in the form of a pencil and tend to be a bit softer than crayons. Pastel pencils are perfect for detailed work and also have the ability to be blended somewhat. They are available in roughly the same range of colors as crayons and are available as individual items or in sets.

Water soluble Pastels

These pastels are an ingenious invention because of their ability to be used both dry and wet. Obviously you can see the amazing possibilities with this kind of medium. You can lay down lines as you would any traditional drawing medium and then brush over these lines with water to create colorful watercolor like washes. These pastels are available individually or in sets and are available in a limited range of colors.

Oil Pastels

Oil Pastels are quite different than other types of pastels in that they use oil as a binder rather than gum. Oil pastels are very sensitive to temperature and they will soften as you use them. They are versatile medium and can be used on a number of different supports including canvas, paper and board. Just like oil paints, oil pastels can also be used with turpentine opening up a whole new world of exciting techniques.

Follow this link for more free pastel painting and drawing tips, techniques and step by step tutorials

So you would like to learn how to draw eh? Drawing is one of the most economical forms of art and is very easy to get started. You really do not need much. For the absolute beginner, all that is really needed is a number 2 pencil and piece of cheap scrap paper. Eventually though, you will probably want to purchase quality supplies as you become more experiences and start producing finished drawings. This article will provide you with an introduction to some of the more popular drawing materials and accessories available to todays artists.

DRAWING MEDIUMS

Graphite Pencils: Graphite pencils, which are sometimes confused with "lead pencils", are nothing more than a mixture of clay and the mineral graphite. These pencils are usually in the form of a long rod which is encased in wood. Graphite pencils range in grade from very hard to very soft, although the harder grades are not used as often as the softer grades. The softer grade pencils will allow you to be more expressive with your work. You can easily find a high quality graphite pencil set online at a number of different art stores and they are usually quite affordable.

Graphite Sticks: Graphite is also available in stick forms that are sold as is or can be inserted into holders or encased in plastic. Graphite sticks are graded in the same fashion as regular pencils and are excellent for covering large areas.

Colored Pencils: If you prefer to draw in color, then colored pencils may be a good fit for you. Colored pencils are available in a variety of colors and can be purchased in sets as well. They are rather waxy in nature so if you like to work with mediums that can be blended, then this is not the right choice for you. They are best suited for techniques that utilize "optical blending" like "cross-hatching" for instance.

Water Soluble Pencils- These are a very interesting and a relatively new drawing medium. These are a wonderful alternative to watercolor paints if you prefer to work with pencil, but still want that "Watercolor" look to your work. You lay down your marks as you would with a colored pencil only when you apply water, your marks instantly dissolve creating colorful washes

Pens & Inks - Pen and ink has been around for centuries and at one point in time was one of the most common drawing mediums. Drawing in ink is rather challenging and intimidating to artists because of its permanence. Inks are impossible to erase bit this isn't necessarily a bad thing. Each line you put down adds to the expressive nature of this medium. There are many different pens available and the only way to know which one you are comfortable with is to test various pens and inks out. You have your Nib style pens which are essentially a holder which accepts various nibs of different sizes and shapes. Then there are technical pens which are available in various sizes. These pens provide the means to create consistent lines no matter the force of pressure. Other pens include felt tip, roller ball, sketching pens, fountain and reed pens.

Chalk - Chalk is one the oldest drawing mediums in existence today. Today chalks are created by mixing limestone, pigments, water and a binding medium. There are a variety of chalks available to today's artists. Conte crayons are a very popular type of chalk. Conte crayons are hard and less prone to breaking. Drawing chalks are also quite popular and are quite similar in appearance and texture to pastels.

Charcoal - Charcoal is made from charred willow and is a very versatile medium. Like chalk, it is also a very old medium that has been in existence for hundreds of years. Charcoal is a very expressive medium and produces rick, dark lines. Like graphite, charcoal is also sold in various grades from hard to soft and is available in different sizes.

Pastels - Pastels can sometimes be difficult to classify as certain pastels like soft and oil pastels, can be applied in an almost painterly fashion. However, because they cannot be mixed in the same way that paint can, and are therefore classified as drawing mediums. Pastels come in a variety of different formats. Some of the more popular are soft pastels and oil pastels but they also come in pencil, crayon and water soluble varieties.

DRAWING ACCESSORIES

Sharpeners - There are a variety of different ways to keep your pencils or drawing mediums sharpened. Always try to keep your pencils sharpened to a fine point. You will get a cleaner, more direct line that way. The best kind of sharpener is really a matter of personal preference. Manual sharpeners are believed to be a better choice as there is more control and less waste making them more economical. If not used properly, an electric sharpener can devour your pencils. A sharp craft knife is sometimes used and creates a longer point to work with.

Erasers - Erasers are available in a variety of different shapes and materials. One of the most widely used and most effective erasers is the kneaded eraser. A kneaded eraser is almost like silly putty and can be molded into any shape making it an excellent tool for erasing small areas of a drawing and a kneaded eraser does not leave marks or unwanted residue.

Fixatives - Fixatives are used to create a protective seal over the drawing surface to prevent the work from smudging. Fixatives can be used during the drawing process to protect each layer as you go or when a drawing is completed to create a permanent protective layer. Not all artists use fixatives as some feel they can ruin a drawing. It is really a personal preference that is always debated.

Tortillions - Tortillions are blending tools made of tightly rolled pointed paper. They are very similar in appearance to pencils. The paper can be peeled away as the surface of the tortillion becomes soiled by the drawing medium. Tortillions are used for blending purposes.

Please visit our main blog for more free drawing lessons, tips and techniques for beginners.

Jo Knoblock Castillo has always had an interest in art and working with her hands. Whether it was cooking, sewing or making gifts, she was happy to be “doing”. While living in Bolivia, she finally rediscovered her love of painting. Her interest is in landscapes and paintings that have connections to her life.

Jo works in most media, but has discovered she really enjoys the special luminosity of pastels. They are tactile, immediate and long lasting. Other than smudging if touched (they should be framed under glass), they are very durable. The colors are clear and vibrant. “I enjoy painting from life and use my own reference photos just as a reminder of shape or lighting,” says the artist.

Winters find Jo and Gene, her husband, living in Bastrop, Texas. It is near family and offers a mild climate and plenty of golf courses and opportunities to paint. Jo looks forward to plein air painting in New Mexico each summer. “It is a challenge to set up an easel and paint a scene in just a couple of hours,” Jo says, “The light is very fleeting and you have to get down large sections of light and dark very quickly to establish your painting. Weather doesn’t always cooperate and uninvited visitors like mosquitos or snakes are not uncommon.”

Please take a moment to visit Jo’s websites to learn more about her and to view more of her work:

http://www.jocastilloart.com/

http://jocastilloartblog.blogspot.com/

Plein Air Painting Demonstration - City Of Rocks

My equipment for plein air:

1. A carrying bag I bought at Academy Sports for about $10.00. In it I put:

• A box with two trays, (A box that originally held Rembrandt pastels) I filled those foam lined trays with an assortment of pastels, in color, value and hardness. (Rembrandts, Daler-Rowney, Art Spectrum, and others)
• A set of Unison darks
• Nupastels
• Paintbrush
• Watercolors and water
• Apron
• Towel
• Paper towels
• Liquid gloves
• Handy wipes
• Sketchbook

2. Camera

3. Surface for my painting. I tape the board or paper to foam core and cover with another piece of form core taped on one edge to make a folder. I just fold it back, paint and then close it and tape or clip it closed to avoid smearing in travel.

4. A lightweight folding easel and table for the pastels. (Sometimes I use a French easel and use the drawer as a partial table.)

5. A small folding stool

6. Sunscreen, hat, bug repellent

7. Snacks, water, etc.

When possible I use the tailgate of my pickup as my table. I recommend being as comfortable as possible when you are out. This puts you in a better mood to paint and make the session enjoyable.

I ventured to the City of Rocks State Park, near Silver City, New Mexico, for a plein air painting session. I knew I would find a picnic table in the shade so I did not need my table. I usually work standing up so that I can step back and evaluate my work as I go. I painted sitting down this session, knowing I would get up to take photos, allowing me to “step back” occasionally.

I found a table in the shade and set up my equipment. I took some photos and picked out my subject, using the camera to crop the view with good composition and light.

Jo painting

Reference photo

When the composition and light is not so obvious, I do several value sketches in the sketchbook. This time I sketched right on the board. (I used a Richeson’s Unison Gator Foam Pastel Surface in white. A new surface for me. When I took the first photograph, I noticed a fault in the board, with a little blending, that disappeared. That happens with shipping and storing and you have to be very careful if you are doing a portrait or some very detailed work to check the surface. For landscapes it usually can be covered up)

The next step was to add an under painting with watercolor. I sometimes use the complementary color to add sparkle to show through the pastels. In this case I chose to use basically the colors themselves to cover the white surface. I put in the darks and basic design.

Watercolor added

I then worked on the sky. I put in the sky first in a landscape to keep it fresh and clear. I used several different blues to give depth and life. It is lighter near the horizon because of the atmosphere. I blended a little with my fingers and a Nupastel, but did not blend the final layer. There was a sprinkling of clouds so I added some with a pale gray, lavender and blue and made the white part with a very light yellow-white. That looks brighter against the blue of the sky and more lively than pure white.

Sky and start laying in rocks

I started laying in the pastels on the rocks with a base color similar to the colors I was seeing. Mauve and cream colors in the light area with some blue-gray and purple for the shadows in the rough rock. For the shadow side of the rocks I used similar shades with more blue and a very dark red that is toward a dark brown.

Middle layers

I scumbled (dragging one color lightly over the other) the colors on with a light touch for an assortment of colors. There was a little green moss on the largest of the rocks adding interest. I rarely use pure browns, typical earth colors or black. This is a personal choice.

End of plein air session

I can always add the bright highlights with the softest pastels on my return to the studio, using the very soft Sennelier and Ludwig pastels for the finished product.

City of Rocks Finished

Follow this link for more free art instruction and demonstrations....

Light and Dark Values

They Create Dimension, Drama, Texture and Shape

No matter what medium or technique you use to depict your subject, always try to use a full range of values. Value is the lightness or darkness of a color. You can simplify value by thinking light, medium and dark. A good drawing should have all three. A tool I use frequently in drawing and painting is a value scale. You could easily make up your own any number of ways. The first one I made out of a page from a Pantone color formula guide mounted on a piece of foam core. The second one, The Don Rankin Value and View Finder, is available through Cheap Joes’ Art Stuff. I like this one because there are holes in the card where the values are and you can hold it right over the area you’re evaluating to get a really good match.

“Value drawings are one of the artist’s best friends.” ~ Harley Brown

Homemade Value Chart

Don Rankin’s Value and View Finder

Sensational Sketches In Six Simple Steps

* STEP 1 ~ Block In Shapes

I recommend using a good quality spiral sketchbook, at least 6″ x 8″ or bigger with a medium weight drawing paper. I like the Strathmore 300 series, 9″ x 12″. You’ll also need a soft drawing pencil (2B - 4B) and a kneaded eraser.

This drawing shows you how to hold the pencil when you first start your drawing. It’s so much easier to first block in shapes this way and keeps you loose without getting caught up in details too early.

* STEP 2 ~ Refine and Add Detail

Ok, now you can tighten up a little and hold the pencil like you would to write. Add some of the main details. Correct and refine your sketch, but don’t get too nit picky!

Keep in mind that this is an exercise. It doesn’t have to be a masterpiece!

When out of the studio sketching, I stop with this step and add the wash later. So all you need to take out with you is a pencil, eraser and sketchbook!

“A pencil is quiet, clean, odorless, inexpensive, and lightweight. I can slip it in my pocket and take it with me everywhere - my secret friend.” ~ Sherry Camby

My motto is: “KISS ~ Keep it sensationally simple!”

Click here to view the rest of this step by step drawing lesson...

Hello again fellow artists.

I would like to let you know about a few lenses I have created on the popular website Squidoo. 

These lenses contain more free art lessons and resources on a variety of different mediums.

Here are the links:

Art Instruction Lens

Oil Painting Lessons and Resources

Acrylic Painting Lessons and Resources

Watercolor Painting Lessons and Resources

Drawing Tips and Resources

I will be updating these lenses with fresh content on a regular basis so be sure to bookmark and check back often.

I took some time to put together a big list of artist resources.  There are some really good websites out there and it can be difficult to find these sites.  This is a rather big list so please visit my art instruction blog to view the list.

I hope you enjoy.

All the best!

Oil painting brushes come in a wide variety of sizes and shapes and this can sometimes overwhelm a beginner. This article will provide you with an overview of the various oil painting brushes available and help you decide what kind of brushes you should invest in.

BRUSH TEXTURES

Oil painting brushes come in two different textures basically, and they are classified as hard and soft. Hard brushes are generally referred to as “bristle brushes” and they are quite resilient. Hard brushes are made from hog's hair and they are strong and stiff. They will hold a good amount of paint and can handle the oil painting medium quite well. I personally prefer working with bristle brushes exclusively as I tend to paint rather rough and direct.

Soft oil painting brushes are made from softer hairs that come from animals like sable, squirrel, or mongoose. Softer brushes will generally give your painting a softer smoother appearance and are more often used for finishing or detailed work. Sable brushes are the most expensive usually but there are synthetic brushes made of nylon that are very good substitutes for sable. They are more resilient and cheaper than sable.

BRUSH SHAPES

There are five shapes to brushes that are generally used and each is meant to have its own function. I prefer to paint with flats, brights and fliberts of various sizes, and only occasionally make use of the other shapes. This is my preference and you will certainly develop your own the longer you paint with oils.

Flats

Flat oil painting brushes have a wide square end with medium to long hairs. Flat brushes generally have a lot of spring to them and can hold a lot of paint. You can use these brushes for broad sweeping strokes or you can turn the brush on its edge to create fine lines. Flat brushes are great for earlier stages of a painting when you are blocking in large areas.

Brights

Bright oil painting brushes are similar in shape to flat brushes but the hairs are shorter. They are best used for making shorter controlled strokes. They do not hold nearly as much paint as a flat brush.

Filberts

The filbert is also similar to the flat brush only the edge of the brush comes to a rounded shape. The hairs of the filbert are medium to long in length. This rounded shape will give you more control then a bright. The filbert is great for blending and figurative work.

Rounds

A round oil painting brush has a round or pointed tip. They hold a nice amount of paint and are great for making thin or thick lines. Use this brush for dabbing on dots or blotches of color. Round brushes are also good for washes, fills and detailed work. They are not suited for creating hard straight edges.

Fans

The fan oil painting brush is a flat fan shaped brush. The fan brush is a specialized brush. It is either used very often by the artist or not at all. It really depends on your style of painting. This brush is not suited for holding paint. It is used more often for blending colors and you should keep this brush clean and dry if you plan to do a lot of blending during a session. The brush will begin to lose its effectiveness when it becomes filled with paint. You may want to keep a few extras on hand.

BRUSH SIZE

Oil painting brushes come in a variety of sizes indicated by numbers as in 1,2,4,6,8,10; size 1 being the smallest and 10 the largest in this example.

BRUSH MANUFACTURERS

Oil painting brushes are made by a number of different manufacturers. A few of the more popular brands are Winsor & Newton, Silver Brush and Robert Simmons. Some artists prefer one brand over another. Other artists like to have an assortment of different brands available. The only way you will know what you like best is by working with the brushes yourself.

CARING FOR YOUR BRUSHES

No matter what brush you buy, whether they are top of the line expensive brushes, or cheaper ones, you will definitely get more life out of them if you care for them properly. There seems to be a difference of opinion when it comes to brush care, especially when it comes to drying your brushes. I personally have two products on hand for cleaning and conditioning my brushes: Masters Brush Cleaner and Preserver and Mona Lisa Pink Brush Soap. I have found that the Masters Brush Cleaner works great on brushes that are deeply stained and hardened with paint, that I would have otherwise thrown out. I use the Mona Lisa Pink Brush Soap to clean my brushes right after a painting session. These cleaners will also help condition your brushes.

After washing my brushes with either of these cleaners, I then attach a clothes pin to the handle of the brush and rest the clothes pin on the edge of a counter or table so that the brush is hanging with the bristles pointing toward the floor. Gravity then pulls the moisture from the brush so that it does not collect in the ferrule, which can damage a brush over time.

I hope this article has helped. Best of luck and happy painting!�

For more free oil painting lessons visit: http://www.creativespotlite.com/oil-painting.htm today! Be sure to also check out the Creative Spotlite Art Instruction Blog for more free art lessons & instruction.