4 posts tagged “landscape painting”
Step 1: Prepare to Paint
For this 18″ x 24″ studio painting I used Claessens double-oil-primed linen canvas, #15 (my usual painting surface), mounted on 1/2″ Gator Board. I applied an initial wash to the canvas with a color that I hoped would end up being pretty close to my final color for the creek bed in the foreground. I don’t use any medium with my paint, just mineral spirits (Gamsol made by Gamblin) that I sometimes use to thin the paint (which I did for the initial wash, then lightly wiped it with a paper towel). I also laid out all my palette colors (listed below).

Brushes:
Holbein Killington bristle flats and Utrecht bristle flats, sizes 2 - 12
Royal Langnickel sable flats (series 5590), sizes 2 - 12
Assorted palette knives for painting, mixing paint and cleaning my palette
Paint:
(Starting from the bottom left on my palette and working upwards and to the right.)
Titanium White (Utrecht)
Cadmium Lemon (Winsor & Newton)
Cadmium Yellow (M. Graham & Co.)
Cadmium Yellow Deep (Utrecht)
Yellow Ochre (Winsor & Newton)
Cadmium Red (M. Graham & Co.)
Venetian Red (Gamblin)
Permanent Alizarin Crimson (Gamblin)
Transparent Oxide Red (Rembrandt)
Viridian (Gamblin)
Cobalt Blue (Winsor & Newton)
Ultramarine Deep (Rembrandt)
Ivory Black (M. Graham & Co.)
The last pile is a gray mixture made from mixing the leftover paint on my palette from my last painting.

Step 2: Draw the Scene on the Canvas
Using a #4 Holbein Killington bristle flat brush, I used some of the gray mixture on my palette to draw my scene. (It really doesn’t matter much what color is used for the drawing since it will eventually be covered up anyway. I usually just try to use a color that isn’t too intense and that is dark enough in value for me to see it over the initial wash.) I thinned the paint with some mineral spirits so that it would flow off my brush easily and tried to keep the drawing simple and accurate.


Step 3: Start the Block-In
My next step was to determine the color and value of my darker foreground shadows and to mix it right next to the color I used for the drawing step. I had already decided that I wanted those shadows to be lighter than I had painted them in the plein air painting, so I compared the shadows between the two paintings to make sure I was on the right track. I used a #6 Utrecht bristle flat brush for these block-in steps while being careful to keep my paint consistency just thick enough to cover each area. (I apply thicker paint in certain areas later in the process.)



Step 4: Continue the Block-In
I then continued to the shapes next to the shadows and blocked them in with the approximate values and colors of each shape. (Notice that I continue to mix the colors on my palette right next to (touching) the other colors. This allows me to squint and compare the values right on my palette, then I can double-check value and color accuracy once I block in the shapes on the canvas.) Throughout this process, I did a lot of squinting at my palette mixtures, my source painting and at the larger painting to compare the value relationships between shapes.


Step 5: Continue the Block-In
Next, I continued by blocking in the mountain areas while trying to keep them simple. I wanted to get the majority of the canvas covered with the most accurate values and colors I could before I got into much detail. (It gets easier to accurately compare values and colors as more of the canvas gets covered.) Notice that I continued to work outward from my initial block-in areas to the areas next to them.


Please visit this link to view this Landscape Painting Demonstration in its entirety
Jo Knoblock Castillo has always had an interest in art and working with her hands. Whether it was cooking, sewing or making gifts, she was happy to be “doing”. While living in Bolivia, she finally rediscovered her love of painting. Her interest is in landscapes and paintings that have connections to her life.
Jo works in most media, but has discovered she really enjoys the special luminosity of pastels. They are tactile, immediate and long lasting. Other than smudging if touched (they should be framed under glass), they are very durable. The colors are clear and vibrant. “I enjoy painting from life and use my own reference photos just as a reminder of shape or lighting,” says the artist.
Winters find Jo and Gene, her husband, living in Bastrop, Texas. It is near family and offers a mild climate and plenty of golf courses and opportunities to paint. Jo looks forward to plein air painting in New Mexico each summer. “It is a challenge to set up an easel and paint a scene in just a couple of hours,” Jo says, “The light is very fleeting and you have to get down large sections of light and dark very quickly to establish your painting. Weather doesn’t always cooperate and uninvited visitors like mosquitos or snakes are not uncommon.”
Please take a moment to visit Jo’s websites to learn more about her and to view more of her work:
http://jocastilloartblog.blogspot.com/
Plein Air Painting Demonstration - City Of Rocks
My equipment for plein air:
1. A carrying bag I bought at Academy Sports for about $10.00. In it I put:
- A box with two trays, (A box that originally held Rembrandt pastels) I filled those foam lined trays with an assortment of pastels, in color, value and hardness. (Rembrandts, Daler-Rowney, Art Spectrum, and others)
- A set of Unison darks
- Nupastels
- Paintbrush
- Watercolors and water
- Apron
- Towel
- Paper towels
- Liquid gloves
- Handy wipes
- Sketchbook
2. Camera
3. Surface for my painting. I tape the board or paper to
foam core and cover with another piece of form core taped on one edge
to make a folder. I just fold it back, paint and then close it and tape
or clip it closed to avoid smearing in travel.

4. A lightweight folding easel and table for the pastels. (Sometimes I use a French easel and use the drawer as a partial table.)
5. A small folding stool
6. Sunscreen, hat, bug repellent
7. Snacks, water, etc.
When possible I use the tailgate of my pickup as my table. I recommend being as comfortable as possible when you are out. This puts you in a better mood to paint and make the session enjoyable.
I ventured to the City of Rocks State Park, near Silver City, New Mexico, for a plein air painting session. I knew I would find a picnic table in the shade so I did not need my table. I usually work standing up so that I can step back and evaluate my work as I go. I painted sitting down this session, knowing I would get up to take photos, allowing me to “step back” occasionally.
I found a table in the shade and set up my equipment. I took some photos and picked out my subject, using the camera to crop the view with good composition and light.
Jo painting

Reference photo

When the composition and light is not so obvious, I do several value sketches in the sketchbook. This time I sketched right on the board. (I used a Richeson’s Unison Gator Foam Pastel Surface in white. A new surface for me. When I took the first photograph, I noticed a fault in the board, with a little blending, that disappeared. That happens with shipping and storing and you have to be very careful if you are doing a portrait or some very detailed work to check the surface. For landscapes it usually can be covered up)
The next step was to add an under painting with watercolor. I sometimes use the complementary color to add sparkle to show through the pastels. In this case I chose to use basically the colors themselves to cover the white surface. I put in the darks and basic design.
Watercolor added

I then worked on the sky. I put in the sky first in a landscape to keep it fresh and clear. I used several different blues to give depth and life. It is lighter near the horizon because of the atmosphere. I blended a little with my fingers and a Nupastel, but did not blend the final layer. There was a sprinkling of clouds so I added some with a pale gray, lavender and blue and made the white part with a very light yellow-white. That looks brighter against the blue of the sky and more lively than pure white.
Sky and start laying in rocks

I started laying in the pastels on the rocks with a base color similar to the colors I was seeing. Mauve and cream colors in the light area with some blue-gray and purple for the shadows in the rough rock. For the shadow side of the rocks I used similar shades with more blue and a very dark red that is toward a dark brown.
Middle layers

I scumbled (dragging one color lightly over the other) the colors on with a light touch for an assortment of colors. There was a little green moss on the largest of the rocks adding interest. I rarely use pure browns, typical earth colors or black. This is a personal choice.
End of plein air session

I can always add the bright highlights with the softest pastels on my return to the studio, using the very soft Sennelier and Ludwig pastels for the finished product.
City of Rocks Finished

Follow this link for more free art instruction and demonstrations....
Hi All,
Just wanted to share a new step by step oil painting demonstration that was created by the very talented artist Jennifer Young.
The title of the painting is "Vineyard Patterns"...
Jennifer Young is a professional artist from Richmond, Virginia, most known for her vibrant landscape paintings of France, Italy, and the American South. She is inspired by the beauty she observes on her frequent travels, and paints on location as often as possible.
When painting a subject, whether it be a person, landscape, wildlife, etc., it is important that you first carefully study and observe your subject. You need to get intimate and personal with the subject you are painting. If you want to learn how to paint great landscapes, then you should spend time in and around the area that inspires you to paint. Only then can you really get a sense of what it is you are seeing, and how to re-create that scene on paper.